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Wednesday, 15 August 2018

Raspberry Pi and Octoprint

Just put the systems together... so will cnc own pcb and make cases and parts too.

Two Raspberry Pi 3 B+, 16GB SD, Pi Cameras, Wifi Cards for octoprint and octolapse.

Will print up cases and these will be one for the Creality Ender 3 and one for the K8200 the second will be in the shack.



I may add another Raspberry Pi 2 B+, 16GB SD but without a camera for the CNC2418 currently in the box if looks like can do that. I will print a 7" LCD mount for a 7" TFT I have for it.

The RAMPS 1.4 boards and bits are all here as is the Arduino CNC shield so I'll update them as well. The K8200 will be seeing some stepper motor updates as well as will add a 3D Touch (BL Touch clone), I have a 3ED V6 hot end clone, although it is for 1.75mm, I can try that until the 3mm one arrives. Got the setup can use direct or bowden feed, might try bowden with a sort of Robin 3D or a GT2 belt double sided extruder.
The ring LED illuminator I got a while back will be added, might have to still get a glass bed for the K8200.
The K8200 electrical contacts for the extruder and hot end there is an STL I need to print that will house a series of connector blocks instead of those nasty solder/heatsink bodges, as well as a few other options.

The Ender 3 will add the PetFang ducts and BL Touch. And a draw that fits to the left of the current controller. Might have to redo/reprint the filament feed that fits to the top as the plug had been damaged.
I have a 5V power supply and LED which were for the CNC but might emply them on the ender3 in the meantime.

Filament sensors will also get added using the end stops that came with the last RAMPS setup. Marlin Firmware will be recoded and configured for the RAMPS1.4I expect will push the buffers up a bit.

The insulated enclosure for ABS etc, I'll add to the K8200 but not sure will need it now as it will only print PLA, so will probably just use it as a cabinet for it.

Not that I expect fire problems but if going to run the printers remote. I will add/mount a MINI AFO Auto Fire Extinguisher Ball
above the printers, got the first one from Amazon the other day. £25 not exactly much to protect against fire. Already have a few dry powder extinguishers in the workshop and shack.

Sunday, 12 August 2018

3mm under Z switch

Photo says it all. Everyone has some HSS drills this packaet has nice handy dimensions on the pack too.

Place a twist drill under the switch and move it it to fit it under then bring it down and tighten in place so you can just remove the drill bit. Result is 3mm higher.


Friday, 10 August 2018

Steppers on the K8200

For reference.



Will change these (one is burnt out anyway) for socket versions and change the wiring harness too. It might be worth investigating reducing to stepers with 0.9 degree rotation per step, 400 per revolution but that all depends on costs. I intend adding a second Z screw as well. These are also listed here 42BYGHW811
47.0 N·cm 3.1 V Ø 5 mm 1.8° 48 mm 2.5A 1.8 mH
about half way on the list https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor


The current board is OK if a little old. Wouldn't support the second Z axis stepper anyway so has to be replaced. No idea why I never added heatsinks to the stepper motor driver boards.

I discovered I also had a new low profile NEMA 17 stepper, a clone (I think) Titan Aero and a clone all metal E3D V6 hot end (both for 3mm) but I like the idea of remote mounting the extruder to reduce the arm weight. Maybe will not have to if add a second one?


RSGB IOTA 2018 M1K EU011

Random collection of photos from camera

The bag pontoon, they pass the bags from SFerry, Scillonian III onto the other island boats, they all help so it goes pretty quick. The boats from ferry to right are for St Agnes (where I ended up), Bryher and St Martin's.

Base of the 30m and 40m vertical. The connections are to the little black potting box tie wrapped to the pole. The ground was rock hard so the screw at this point only went in a few inches.

So here is the fix... take the pole down (carefully), hand up screw the support in the ground, fill the hole with boiling water, wait 5 mins repeat, then put the screw back in, by hand , fit it with water (not boiling now), I used the wooden spoon handles and screwed the pole right in then as the ground is softer, put the pole back up.


You will need to guy it if it is windy, I had wind for just one direction so somewhat lazily added just a single guy to a cow sorter that was in same field.


The bench with ATS-3B and on 30m


The 80m vertical looks pretty good (is and QRPGuys 60m/80m vertical). I added 6 radials and used a short coiled length of 75ohm coax at the feed as a transmission line.


On 30m and as you can see NO internet.

Got the essential supplies. You can just see the WSPRlite and the fan I'll use later. All the necessary QRP colour of course.


And the power supply proved a handy place for the FANTA

Bloody rabbits liked the feeder so had to raise it.


Bye bye EU011

4SQ builds and big Yaesu rotator.

Got two SJ2W and 1 M1GEO 4 SQ controller to make up.

80m, 40m and 20m (I expect)

Will add to the 30m one I have already.

The dummy loads I have the one I made up, might make another.
For the controller cables should source some CAT5 and make them up.



The rotator, the plan is to ground mount it and rotate a c 20' TV pole onto which I'll add the 23cm yagi, will also be a mount for the DXhexbeam when using from home.

More Photos to follow.

Next big activity w/e is august bank holiday so need to make sure got inter-G working for that.


3D Printer/CNC reorg

K8200 (which I will be refurbing to RAMPS) I will keep as a 3mm filament printer. Will add Octoprint and OctoLapse to this one. Now gone to shack. Orange and Black PLA.

Creality Ender3 1.75mm filament looks like will become main 3D printer. A RAMPS upgrade is on the cards if need to as the current M/B is a bit limited. Got to add bootloader etc, after see that the power resume has been added to the Marlin/TH3D source, or just add it myself. I have a BLTouch but got a glass bed on the printer so might play with if this is worth it. Looks like have to make up the PETSFANG fan shroud. Got a few different nozzles to play with as well as a few different colour filaments.. Will add Octoprint and OctoLapse to this one.

Not tested ABS printing but might, all PLA for now.

The 2418 CNC that will make PCB easily enough is now on workshop shelf, it it's own sound proof box (it makes one heck of a lot of noise routing PCB!) need to finish the calibration after they sent a new motherboard, I have a feeling I'll update it to the Arduino CNC Shield.
Will add a version of Octoprint and OctoLapse to this one I think.



Will add photos bit later.

Found still had all the parts for another CNC engraver from an Instructables build. Not recommended now but as have it I suspect will build it at some point.

Tuesday, 31 July 2018

2018 0727 192136 006



M1K RSGB 2018 EU011 station rig setup

Friday, 13 July 2018

QRPGuys 80/60m Vertical Antenna

This will be used on 80m QRP as M1K in the RSGB IOTA contest 2018 from EU011 St Agnes.


It is going to basically be a centre loaded GP on 80m.

The last contest on 80m was from C6 and from there I had two full sized phased 80m verticals. Wanted to work loads of G stations, this time I'm 4000 miles closer so this should do fine :-)

Of course I know from St Agnes looking West I have nothing but salt water path to NA.

Propagation might be metaphorically in the toilet but I suspect a contest will test that hypothesis.

Anyway as the build goes on I will add to this post. As per the 40m-10m UnUn there are no antenna wires, I'll add this a bit later as that will need me to get the poles out etc.

All the parts laid out before start.




That winding




Not got any more photos from the build..



Also have a 1:1 and 1:4 balun so will make those up too.


Had to add some M6 screw and nut hardware on the 4:1 as the ones I had failed. My mistake tightened the bolt too much.






M1K RSGB IOTA 2018 from St Agnes EU011





As some might know by now I'm going to be doing the RSGB IOTA contest QRP again from EU011 St Agnes.

The antennas will be approximately where I marked on those images.

This time with a few extra challenges.

Rig will be ATS-3B (Designed by KD1JV)
Antennas will be from QRPGUYS for 80m I'll use the 80/60m Vertical Antenna and for 40/20/15 & 10m I'll used the 40m-10m UnUn Plus

I will also take the QRPLABS Hans Summers, G0UPL designed QCX https://qrp-labs.com/qcx.html on 30m and a SOTA Beams WSPRLite  https://www.sotabeams.co.uk/wsprlite-antenna-tester/ (also on 30m) and will be qrv before the contest as M1KTA and the WSPRlite will be on during the contest.

I found the tiny new Mini USB Keyer from K1EL a must have for contesting with Win-Test as used so well as C6AKT earlier this year in BERU/RSGB Commonwealth Contest (won the Lilliput trophey for winning the QRP category) http://k1el.tripod.com/WKmini.html in UK you'll find KANGAUK have it available. https://www.kanga-products.co.uk/k1elsystemproducts-winkeyer

Got a nice shack too, I had operated from an old shed on exact same location in 2016.


QRPGuys UnUnPlus

One of the antennas for RSGB IOTA Contest as M1K from St Agnes EU011.

https://qrpguys.com/ununtenna-plus

My build... will update as it goes.

Layout all the parts and check with the circuit diagram.

 I can see I have a spare capactor indicator plate but a missing 470ohm resistor. No harm got one in the 'junkbox'


Why do  some find some torroids so hard to wind?
The FT37-43 SWR indicator torroid is not hard.




Watch the orientation of the zip ties as you pass them through the board if you want them to sit flat.


C1 & C2 yes you have to modify, not hard just be really careful taking off the plastic. I use a little bench vice and hacksaw and just cut a couple of slots.



T1. I changed the provided tie wraps for green and orange ones but the provided ones are fine.



T2. again I changes the provided tie wraps for blue and yellow ones

There the kit ends so will have to add wires etc...




I suspect if gets wet might be fun so will craft a cover of sorts.

Wednesday, 27 June 2018

2017 Talk

GQRP talk last year at Telford ARS

Tuesday, 19 June 2018

M1K : NFD 02/06/18

That's more like it...

Adjudication report for M1K : NFD 02/06/18

No Errors found in your log

No Reverse Errors found

QSO Error rate = 0.0%

Average Error Rate for this contest = 1.94%

Ended up near the bottom though as operated fixed as moved from /P location while setting up :-(

cnc enclosure covers on part1

It's just a small CNC, will use for PCB milling initially.

Got the base (old kitchen unit shelf) and the frame fixed in place, got the sides one and the top will make it 1/3 close 2/3rds on a piano hinge. It doesn't have lots of room inside but doesn't really need to. I have this sound foam I will add to the sides. But I really just wanted to reduce the noise and contain the dust.



I'll add a perspex door to the front, I have a sheet (Ex.G3ZAY tnx), but it is a bit thin to self support so might make a wooden frame for it. I suspect a couple of carry handles to the base. The CNC will have a couple of rubber plates added so it is less prone to cause vibration.

Got the emergency stop switch (ebay for pennies), I will put that inline with the power cord (probably in a little box on the base) activating it will kill all power immediately, will add lights and a fan, maybe a camera too! Door interlock?

A 12V car vaccum will probably sit on top (rear) or side with the flexible hose going inside to the table for the swarf etc it will create. I might 3D print a hose holder and nozzle. The PCB is bare right now,, no cover, I might leave it like that but might be prudent to cover it too.

ALL the sides can be taken off as are held in place with four 6x3.4" screws as can the frame, so if need to get to stuff I can.

In two minds if I paint it at all.

The CNC doesn't have any limit switches but it could and the PCB does support them so will be looking at if need those. I have checked and if the CNC goes off the end of one direction X,Y or Z the motors turn but don't jam, not sure if that is a good thing or not.

I expect I could RAMPS/Arduino CNC shield convert this at some point in the future but for now it will be USB cable driven. GRBL control so either something bespoke or I like Chillipepr.

I suspect one item I'll need to add will be a jig for double sided milling.

Saturday, 16 June 2018

enclosure for mini CNC

Just rough right now... got to rethink that bottom left corner. Might be fine one the sides are on.





Got plenty of plywood for the sides, base will be a bit thicker.

Working out adding a small LED strip, vaccum hose and emergency on/off switch. Front will eventually have a door.
Not the quietest of machines when milling pcb.

The spindle is c80W so that looks like the weak point, got a few ideas for alternatives. Might not be controllable off the PCB though.

Yes will be milling PCB with it. Max size about 250mm x 180mm

Sunday, 20 May 2018

Enclosure for the 3D printer and 3D CNC

As seen a few heating/cooling issues when using ABS as opposed to PLA filaments decided to box up the 3D printer. Will also box up the 3D CNC but that is for sound proof reasons.


The frame is held together with the same 40mm screws the insulation boards are held with. The little wood blocks help with the frame being square.


The access door will probably be on this large side panel with the longer side board on the left. Which I'll cut out. The door I will likely rebate into the foam.
I'll keep one side board longer that the other on top as the board will just butt up to it. And will add the top later.
Looking down inside, important the blocks are NOT hindering the floor etc. As the printer will be just lowered into this once built.

Will add a door on the facing side, space to store the filament (will need an extra box added internally), cooling and cable entrances etc. I use  a Meanwell type 24V 10A PSU to power this so that will probably sit on top, I'll add some ventilation and a small 12/24V fan for the electronics. The top will be another piece of board with access to the filament storage. Maybe top will have a bit of wood on one side as I'll add an emergency ALL STOP button to the top. Internal lights some goose head LED things I have already.  The base is some odd bit of chip board I had in the workshop, cut to fit, frame, some 15mm square section I had and the insulation is 25mm insulation board with aluminum foil backing (cellotex is common brand name). The sheets were attached with some 40mm plaster board screws, as the boards are Aluminium foam backed, the screws hold the boards in place nicely. I had parts of sheets spare so they were applied to this. The dimensions are to fit the printer and bits... was originally a K8200 in case interested.

The jury is out if there is any point painting this as I don't care what it looks like outside.

Once built will have a place on the workshop bench and I expect will be less vulnerable to being used as a dump ground for projects.

I have a part built 3D object scanner and I might see if I can fit it in side. If I do that the insides will be sprayed Matt Black, I have some chalk board paint. Or that will get it's own enclosure too and sit on top of the printer.

The 3D CNC will use  (mocked it up first) 15mm x 25mm wooden frame, covered in 8mm ply (again was in workshop), the door will use a piano hinge I have and one whole side will open. I expect will line the box with sound reduction foam and the printer will sit on 25mm (at least) rubber blocks (cut from old mouse mats and drive shipping pieces)  so that the sound of PCB milling doesn't send one nuts. It is much smaller but will build with a 500mm width base I expect. Internal storage for CNC 'bits', I'll add a vacuum hose and LED light same as 3D printer.