Confused by X2 / Y2 gobbledegook

I think this sort of summarises it ...

From http://www.justradios.com/safetytips.html

All safety capacitors should have certifier’s symbols on their casing. For example UL (for USA), CSA (for Canada), VDE (for Germany), etc. To ensure you are using properly certified safety capacitors check that certification symbols (see below) are on the cases.

The different types are easily seen in this diagram.

C1 is X type, C2 and C3 are Y type.

I believe:

"Across-the-line” capacitors (X type) should be replaced with type X2, X1/Y2 or Y2 safety capacitors.

“Line-to-ground” line filter capacitors (Y Type) should be replaced with Y2 or X1/Y2 safety capacitors. (do not use X2 type).

As got to replace two 0.068uF X2 in oscilloscope looked to see what did I have before having to buy new ones.... and found some....  but are they the right sort?

Oscilloscope Tektronix 2465CTS Ressurection part 1

Time to fix the scope...

So this was the process to diassemble (where I got to anyway).

There are power supply problems (old capacitors).

1. A some what terminal step but got to do this turn it on and wait, self checks fine then sure enough blue smoke from the rear..... so turn it off, unplug and wait (any C that might have charged up need to be discharged).

2. Remove the rear panel

3. Side off the case (I will photo this)

4. The top of the scope internal, mine is a CTS so has the GBIC module.... filling where most have empty space.

5. Detach the leads marked CDE

6. Detach the leads I marked -++ GBIC rear interface

7. Remove the GBIC front LED jumpers

8. Remove the small 3x2 and 2x1 jumpers, last is a small RG174 coax connection. The leads are fitted so that the 1 is visible on the 3x2 and the coax inner fits furthest from the PCB

9. Remove the ribbon cables I have marked I, II and III

10. Remove the PSU board screws on strip with TO220 regulators

11. On case outer remove fan cover screw and remove (hold fan in place with bit of tape.)

12. remove screws holding PSU PCB in place (by fan)

13. Remove the black mains input cover holding screws

14. pull the spades off the mains input

15. unscrew the mains input and pull it out (care not 100% as there is an earth wire soldered to it. Put screws back on it once out... this is so you can then...

No photo.

16. pull off spades to the mains inline fuse holder.

17. Unplug the multi colour and gret leads connected to two SIL on the PSU PCB

18. Unplug the grey lead on the CPU board that provides power from the PSU

No photo

19. Pull the PSU PCB assemblies out (care do not flatten the electrolytics doing it)

No photo

20.The black flying lead that powers the fan goes to the feed through will still be securing the PSU modules to the scope

20. Desolder the black lead

No photo

The PSU PCB are now free.

Quick visual inspection shows the site of the blue magic smoke.... the paper 0.068uF X2 caps in the mains input filter section had detonated!

It just remains to take the cover off the pcb, separate the boards, de-solder and then replace the faulty capacitors, test and reverse the above :-)

Some of the 20V silver electrolytics look a bit suspect.... will test with esr meter. The green, black or brown can ones 'look' OK but will test them as well.

KX3 and DXlabs

The Command screen and configuration for my KX3

Yes I have resigned from CDXC

A few asked.... yes I have resigned from CDXC.

ELAD SDR Switch

Just been sent one of these... bit old really but looks like will work fine.

Going to put it between a KX3 and Softrock SDR instead of the 4 State QRP group MagicBox. 

RF & AF RX/TX Automatic Exchanger ELAD SWITCH BOX is an automatic T/R switch normally connect the antenna to RX input. When it senses RF power on RTX (max. 100W), the antenna is connected to RTX input and the antenna input of your receiver is connected to ground to protect tour receiver. Instead of using RF sense to switch antenna, a control line input lets your key/keyer or PTT line switch the antenna. Works on all mode: CW, AM, SSB, FM and digital modes. Individually tested up to VHF. A complete switch control is available for the audio receiver and transceiver, for MUTE the receiver and monitoring your CW Sidetone or SSB coming from the transceiver MONITOR function. SWITCH BOX is compatible with any receiver and any HF transceiver or HF transmitter.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Impedance: 50Ω Frequency range: DC - 160MHz Maximum TX power: 100W RF sense threshold: < 10mW (1.8MHz – 30MHz tested) ON time < 20ms Release time: < 190ms Insertion loss: < 0.3dB @ 144MHz (0.2dB typical) RX isolation: > 38dB @ 144MHz (40dB typical) Gas discharge protection Power supply: 13.8V DC 200mA

Now I know where the GP antenna went!

A comment I was sent recently after coming back from Cornwall was "We knew the weather was a bit poor but after a while operating I thought the bands had gone very quiet and then I looked out the window...."

I grew up as a kid in Porthleven and was sent a photo of the storms from a few weeks back.... I often used to sit and operate from one of the houses on the cliff top (called Blue Buoy) in the background using a locals antenna that is no more. He just told me the antenna and support has gone... I know why now.

This is the usual view south

The institute and harbour are usually less stormy, this taken from the road above the Ship Inn on way to Rinsey.

Another fine place to operate with great sea views is the cliff near Rinsey (about 3 miles west) by the wheal prosper engine house.

This was mum, dad and Christine this year from the car park the wheal house in the background.

TX6G Worked

I'm in the log :-)

KX3, 5W, 30m GP wire taped to a fishing pole, 2 radials and at QTH Cambridge JO02bd nothing special. USe an RTL SDR RX to spot how the pile was working, easy one 1up very narroiw and just listened and listend to Nigel operating and when you heard the up... pop in callsign.. I went a little UP fro the split but not much.

So are other GQRP members