Decided to make up the DX Hexbeam and Dipole 1:1 FT240-43 balun that had been knocking about for a bit. Based on the W1JR version.
Rather than fit SO239 or N Type sockets going to add pigtails using N-Type compression fittings.
Other than a trip which might get the odd mention I will detail projects I am working on, what I want to be working on and what I have otherwise to report on. I will update the individual projects as they advance. As asked I have started to catalogue the references I have follow the link on the left where you can obtain them too. Want to email me wander over to qrz.com and you'll find my email address there. Also twitter @m1kta_qrp
Decided to make up the DX Hexbeam and Dipole 1:1 FT240-43 balun that had been knocking about for a bit. Based on the W1JR version.
Rather than fit SO239 or N Type sockets going to add pigtails using N-Type compression fittings.
Just pulling together putting this into a case I'll make from FR4 offcuts.
Will add 3 push to make switches an on/off, external DC feed and will add an external SMA.
getting there, bit bigger than just the HP360 but will fit something else in the case too.
Lid (no photo just yet) will be added and the HP360 will screwed into it.
The switches a DC connector I'll fit to the base before hand. The remaining space will probably be taken up with a simple VSWR meter.
Will possibly save using so much electrical tape putting up the masts.
I use telescoping fishing poles a lot and one issue I notice is that I can end up using a lot of electrical tape to secure the sections. Investigated a few options, including using square section rubber tube (with 4mm releasing cable ties inside) which works quite well. Got to thank TX6G for that hint.
Investigating another option and making up some make clamps from old cycle inner tube, heat-shrink and stainless hose clamp set, you cut the clamp to length.
Raw materials:First clamp (for base section): Not perfect, I'll get better!
It is a layer effect... heatshrink about some cycle innertube, the clamp runs through so the mast will have the heatshrink and rubber between it and the clamp.
You cut the rubber and feed it through first then the clamp section and then heat it into place. Feed the tail into the end and feed it in.
Saw something like this on M4A, G6UW antennas a while back and 'found' I had a bag of bits to make it and through might be fun. I expect need to add some labels on them with white permanent marker and short length of clear heat-shrink over?
One down, 11 sections per 10m travel pole to go, few less on the longer masts.
Got 70 odd clamps and the metal strip you cut to length and plenty of old innertube and heatshrink.
I have a 7mm hex driver, I need to get a 6mm one for these.
Should make fixing the masts a bit easier. Might not be faster.
I think Spiderbeam or a DL had a similar website.
Grabbed a 16x2 LCD from the junk box and and added some inpin pins so it plugged in and then to the SMA input port added a couple 3dB attenuators before a small signal generator and fed it in and it seems to be working fine.
The RF Power Meter is rated at < 1W input but it is capable of up to 2.49GHz so should do 13cm even.
Now to box it up properly.
Ran it off a desktop power supply measured at 9.1V DC.
Screen reports 9.1V DC.
Ran through the self test using 100nF capacitor and a set of joined wires to short probes 1-2-3
A 33nf capacitor with this reported as 33.29nF which tallied with another tester.
Bit cold in workshop right now so will post a few more images of random junk box/salvaged components then pick this up another day but on face of it seems to be working fine.
Just followed the silkscreen placing components.
Not terribly difficult. The Pins on the uPC were a bit bent but straightened fine.
Noticed a few things missing.
One 27K resistor and couple terminal blocks.